Everything You Didn't Know About Knitwear
KNITPEDIA
What Is Gauge? Why a Knitting Machine’s “Pitch” Changes the Appearance of the Fabric
How Pills Form
Knits develop pilling because the fibersThey become entangled due to friction and rise to the surface, where they solidifyThis is the reason.
Pilling is particularly likely to occur under the following conditions.
The fibers are long and thin→ Prone to slipping due to friction (wool, cashmere, etc.)
Contains synthetic fibers→ Because they are resistant to friction, the fibers don't break but instead curl up and form pills (acrylic, polyester, etc.)
Highly Mobile Parts→ Cuffs, underarms, sides, areas where the bag rubs against the body, etc.
Pills tend to form due to "friction, heat, and force."
How Prone to Pilling Different Knit Fabrics Are
Acrylic blend: It's inexpensive, but pilling is noticeable.
Polyester blend: Durable, but prone to pilling
Cashmere: It is very soft and prone to pilling, but with proper care, it will last a long time.
100% Wool: It does develop mats, but they come out easily when brushed
Woven Fabrics vs. Knitwear: Which Is More Prone to Pilling?
To put it simply, knit fabrics are more prone to pilling than woven fabrics.
1. Differences in Structure
Knitwear
Because it is knitted in a looped pattern, the yarn tends to shift easily, causing the surface to become fuzzy.
When lint gets tangled due to friction, it turns into a ball of lint.
Woven Fabrics
The warp and weft threads intersect at right angles, making it easy to secure the threads.
It is less likely to develop surface fuzz and is resistant to pilling.
2. Properties of the Thread Used
To give knitwear softness and stretch,Thin, pilling-prone yarns and yarns containing synthetic fibersis commonly used.
To give woven fabrics body and strength, they are relativelyYarn with tight twist and minimal fuzzThere are many.
3. Friction While Wearing
Because knitwear fits snugly against the body and moves with you, it’s prone to friction in areas such as the underarms and sleeves.
Although woven fabrics can restrict movement, the frequency and intensity of friction are relatively low.
Summary
Prone to Pilling
Knitwear > Woven FabricsPilling is particularly noticeable on knitwear made of wool or acrylic blends.
In the case of woven fabrics that are prone to pilling due to a raised-pile finish (such as flannel), pilling may occur, but generally not to the same extent as with knits.
Types of Knitwear Prone to Pilling, Ranked (Approximate)
The ball of yarnVery easy to make (Large)
Acrylic Knit
→ Synthetic fibers are so strong that they don't break, so they curl up due to friction and leave behind pilling. This is common in inexpensive sweaters.Cashmere Sweater
→ Because the fibers are very fine and soft, they easily become fuzzy and develop pills due to friction. However, they are easy to care for with brushing.Wool and Acrylic Blend
→ The combination of wool's tendency to fuzz and acrylic's tendency to leave fibers behind results in a lot of pilling.
The ball of yarnRelatively easy to make (Medium)
100% Wool Knit (Merino Wool, etc.)
→ While pilling does occur, wool fibers break easily, so they may fall off naturally, leaving fewer pilling residues than acrylic does.Knitwear Made from Animal Hairs, Such as Angora, Mohair, and Alpaca
→ The long, soft, fluffy fibers tend to get tangled and form mats. While it looks luxurious, it’s hard to avoid matting.
The ball of yarnHard to do (Small)
Cotton Knit
→ Since it’s made of short fibers, it does pill to some extent, but less so than wool or acrylic. The pills come off easily in the wash.Linen-Silk Blend Knit
→ It has a smooth surface and is resistant to pilling. It is also relatively resistant to friction.Nylon-Blend (Small Amount) Knit
→ Nylon is strong, but adding a small amount can improve durability and may also reduce pilling.
Summary (In Order of Likelihood of Pilling)
Acrylic > Cashmere > Wool/Acrylic Blend > 100% Wool > Angora/Mohair > Cotton > Linen/Silk Blend
There are also differences depending on the knitting method.
Loose-knit (coarse knit)→ Because the yarn is thick and creates a lot of friction, it tends to pill easily.
High-gauge (fine knit)→ Because the yarn is tightly packed, it is less likely to shed and less prone to pilling.
Pilling Prone Matrix (Fabric × Knitting Method)
What is a “gauge”?
We often hear the terms “high gauge” and “low gauge,” but what’s the difference between them, really?
"Gauge" is a key factor that determines the "look" and "feel" of a knit garment. In fact, this term refers to the "thickness of the knitting machine's needles," and it is a crucial factor that greatly influences the fabric's appearance and texture. Even with the same yarn, a different gauge can make the fabric look and feel like an entirely different material.
"Gauge" refers to,Gauge of Knitting Machine NeedlesIt is a term that refers to .
The number of needles lined up within a 1-inch (approx. 2.54 cm) width—that number is the “gauge” measurement.
For example,
"5-gauge" refers to 5 needles per inch (as shown on the left in the photo)
"12-gauge" refers to 12 needles per inch (as shown in the photo on the right)
That's what it means.
In other words, the numbers areThe smaller the size, the wider the spacing between the needles.、A loose-knit fabric made with thick yarnThat's how it works.
Conversely, the numbersThe larger the size, the closer the spacing between the needles,、A smooth, high-density fabric made from fine yarnThat's how it works.
It is precisely this “needle thickness = gauge” that,
KnitThickness, Texture, Stretch, BreathabilityThese are key factors that influence that impression.
The difference in gauge is,
"What kind of yarn to use" or "what kind of texture to achieve," such asThe Starting Point of Design...as well.
Even with the same fabric, simply changing the gauge can sometimes result in a garment that looks completely different.
Differences in Gauge: The Impact on "Appearance" and "Function"
The lower the gauge, the more air is trapped in the fabric, creating a “three-dimensional look” where the stitches are visible. On the other hand, a higher gauge results in a tighter weave, producing a thin, smooth texture. In other words, gauge is the primary factor that determines the “character” of the fabric.
If you'd like to learn more,
The content of this article has been independently edited and organized using research and AI. For those who wish to learn more about the properties of textiles and clothing care in greater depth, we recommend consulting a specialized institution such asJapan Clothing Management Association (General Incorporated Association)Well,
Text widely used in the industryBasic Knowledge of Textile Products (Newly Revised Edition), 3-Volume SetThis may be helpful.
This resource provides a systematic overview of fiber structure, material properties, and handling methods.
Glossary | Page (Part 1) | Contents | |
|---|---|---|---|
Classification of Knitting Machines and Stitch Formation | Bella needles, beard needles | P.64 | Types of Knitting Needles, etc. |
Knitting Stitches | Stockinette stitch, ribbing, pearl stitch, double-faced knit, single tricot stitch, single cord stitch, single atlas stitch | p.68-p.72 | Changes in fabric structure based on knitting techniques, such as kanoko stitch and Milan rib |
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